Wednesday 26th.
Feb.
Mueller Hut Walk 1275 metres of very steep ascent 12.6km
7.5hours
Another cloudless day in Aoraki/Mount Cook Village. Cool
at 15˚C, but obviously going to warm up even at altitude, and a good supply of
water added to rucksac, in order to climb to the Mueller Hut at 1800 metres.
Start out around 9.00am from the village at about 760
metres and walk the 2 km. on the flat through relatively sparse bush to the
start of the climb. Looking ahead you can see no evidence of a track up the
very steep hillside because it is completely smothered in head high bush.
It would be a shock to anyone to find that the first 500
metres is continuous well engineered wooden steps with gravel infill, and these
are very steep “steeps” (steep steps for those of you who don’t already know
the Kiwi pronunciation of step); in fact 500 metres of stairway steeper than my
steeper than normal stairs at home is serious business.
After that the bush turns to grass and rock and the next
500 metres is still steep but eases off a bit.
A great viewpoint for Mount Cook and Mount Sefton from a
convenient rock promontory, followed by a typically alpine rock track to the
Mueller Hut at 1800 metres.
Feeling good and ahead of the guide time I went on up a
very rocky (mostly large, angular and sharp) ridge to Mount Olivier at 1933
metres.
Looking down from Mount Olivier to Mount Cook Village and the Hermitage
Looking from Mount Olivier to Mount Cook
Then back down those steep steeps (Pat you would hate
them)
Not a cloud in the sky all day and whilst relatively cool
up top very warm on descent for a well earned cold drink and ice cream.
Saw a few Keas around the entrance to the Hermitage but
they weren’t performing to expectations of the hoards of tourists trying to
film them: being quite stand offish really.
The Hermitage despite its name is in fact a massive very
swish multi story hotel complex, all glass and steel (a very tasteful dark
grey: really, it works) . It is in its 5th. reincarnation from the
first small wooden hotel in the 1800s.
Aoraki/Mount Cook village is a very pleasant and tidy
Alpine Village, small by comparison to most of those of the European Alps, but
well spread out, interspersed with bush, and connecting roads and footpaths.
After my evening meal I went to the 3D cinema to see the
Maori Legend of Mount Cook, its history in the hands of the immigrant
community, and how it fits in to present day climbing, skiing, and tourist
expectations. 3D was certainly an experience; the fly-bys of the mountain and
the glaciers are quite stunning, and occasionally they threw something out of
the screen and everybody ducked: in fact I think for a joke one of them was a
duck.
Also went to see a more detailed, but none 3D
film, about the climbing of Mount Cook past and present including Sir Ed.
Hillary. It all looked pretty frighteningly impossible to me, but then one
bloke skied down it with a camera: that looked even more impossible, and no
room for error with massive drops and crevaces either side of very narrow steep
route. And so to bed for nightmares of climbing and falling off the very steep,
knife edged top of Mount Cook: not really: slept well after a day like that.
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