Wednesday 19th. Feb.
Spent the morning walking Christchurch City Centre.
Most roads are now usable because most of the really
devastated or unsafe buildings have been cleared down to empty hard-cored lots,
or screened and protected by stacks of shipping containers. Equally there are
many skyscrapers and multi-storey car parks empty and unusable, but left in
situ as they are no danger to street users. I covered an area of 2km x 2km of which I think between 50 to 75 percent was devastated. There must be considerable damage for a further few km, but the suburbs appeared to be only lightly affected. The population of Christchurch is only around 350,000 so it is a relatively small place by comparison to British cities.
The Cathedral will have to be demolished, but they have
built the Cardboard Cathedral to last 20 years.
Also close by they have built a
modest shopping village The Container Shopping Centre: The Kiwis are certainly resilient
and inventive, but it will be a very long haul indeed.
There is some repair and
new build going on but it is only a fraction of what is needed, and people
around talk of at least 20 years to reclaim the city. In future nothing will be
built above 8 stories high, and talking to one of the engineers on the site of the
new Terraces they are building on a concrete raft instead of deep piles.
Then around lunchtime, as recommended by Janet M. and
every guide book going, I headed to the extensive Botanic Gardens, and, caught by
surprise without umbrella by my first rain shower I headed into the Museum café
for the second day in a row. It didn’t last very long and it is still very hot,
so in fact I would have dried out quickly in Rohan gear.
Christchurch developed rapidly after early settlement in
the mid 1800s and it was the communal pride to plant the gardens which now
boast a large number of large well spaced 200+ year old trees. I was very
surprised to see more Common Lime trees than I see at home alongside Horse Chestnut;
the settlers apparently wanted to bring home with them to the extent of also
planting formal beds and herbaceous borders of European plants. The Gardens now
boast ponds, a rockery with heathers, a big herbaceous border with Hydrangeas
and Hemp Agrimony (ref. JO Mrs. – she taught me this one) but also an area of
native trees and bushes.
After that I headed in the direction of home via The
Riccarton Bush, or Deans Bush, which is a large area of probably the only
remaining original vegetation; this was deliberately saved by the first farming
family (The Deans Brothers) whilst all around they were developing a large
profitable farming estate by clearing 400 year old trees for building timber
and the thick underbrush for fields. It is protected from animal predators by wire
fencing, double gated (airlock) entrances and rangers, and takes at least half
an hour to walk round. Janet M. did you get to see it? You would have loved it.
This is now completely surrounded by suburbs which I
walked through (thanks to my New Zealand maps and my smartphone satellite navigation)
back to the Motel. Very beautiful suburbs they are too; lots of space in wide grass
and tree lined avenues, and not a single small square box, and not one the
same. I can see why Norman and Mon came to NZ.
Only mid afternoon, but I was shattered: going to have to
pace myself.
Thursday I pick up the hire car and drive down to Akaroa
in the Banks Peninsular, followed by the 2 day Banks Peninsular Track (I have
taken Fred’s recommendation) so you may not hear from me for a few days.
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